Harajuku Wanderings

MONDAY, OCTOBER 11

I was up bright and early to get a full day of touring in before heading back to Shiga. I hopped onto the train and headed to Senso-ji shine in Asakusa. Ouside the station, lots of jinrikisha (pedicab drivers) stood waiting for passengers. This shrine had a whole little market leading up to it, filled with stalls of knick-knacks and some Japanese things like fans, fake ninja masks, cell phone charms, polyester “kimono,” and sweets. I was darting in and out as best I could with the thick crowds.

Once at the temple, I joined the Japanese tourists in taking lots of pictures. The temple enshrines the golden image of Kannon (the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy). Legend has it that this image was miraculously fished out of nearby Sumida-gawa in 628AD by two fisherman. The image has remained here ever since, despite successive buildings of the temple. Whether it actually exists is a secret, as there is no public display of it. The current temple was built in 1950.

In the gateway are the fearsome images of Fujin, god of wind, on the right, and Raijin, the god of thunder, to the left. They serve as protectors. In front of the temple is a large black incense cauldron, and the smoke is said to give good health. Many people rubbed themselves in it. I contented myself with standing where the wind would blow it over me.

On the way back out, I wandered around the streets a fair bit. I eventually decided to be a tourist – one of my biggest regrets in Ireland is not buying ENOUGH – and ended up buying a little wall hanging I'd also seen in Kyoto and had liked there, too. It as reasonably priced 1,000 yen, and came in a set of four. I got one, and I figure if this set is so popular, I'll pick one up each time I see them, so I can claim they came from all over Japan. I'm sure I'll at least get one in Kyoto. I also bought myself a Japanese-style fan, a few little things for Olivia, at her request, and something for Alyssum. I browsed the sweets, but was overwhelmed with what I might get my Koko teacher who booked my tickets and with the heavy crowds, I eventually decided to wait. Also, I didn't want to risk damaging it as I carried it around.

I browsed some used kimono shops, and things were generally about $100-$200 for a used kimono. It's something to keep in mind. That's probably in my future. It also makes me want to check out Ragstock in Madison again.

I hopped onto the metro again and headed for Meiji-jinja shrine. I'd planned to go to the Edo Shitamachi Traditional Crafts Museum first, but I read my book again and noted that it was closed on Mondays. The shrine is in Harajuku, where cosplay is very popular. Cosplay girls, also know as Harajuku girls or goth-Lolis, they enjoy Japanese visual-kei (visual type) bands and anime and manga characters. Many are girls who are ijime-ko, kids bullied at school and who dress up in their weekend identities as a release. I didn't see many cosplay girls myself, just a few, but they were there in their froofy outfits.

The shrine itself was big, huge, actually, and very peaceful. It was built in 1920 to enshrine the memory of Emperor Meiji and his Empress, Shoken, who passed away in 1912 and 1914 respectively. It was under their rule that Japan ended isolation and the Emperor took to wearing foreign dress. The shrine was established in 1920. The shrine was destroyed in WWII bombings and the new one was completed in 1958. Unlike most Japanese reconstructions, however, this shrine is authentic. The shrine was built with Japanese cypress and the cypress for the huge torii (shrine gates) came from Alishan in Taiwan. The forest is lovely and it's lots of walkways through what feels like nature right next to the bustling shopping of Harajuku. According to the pamphlet I picked up, each of the 100,000 trees was individually planted by hand to give the souls of the Emperor and Empress a place to dwell. Now, 90 years later, it's impossible to tell that the forest is a human creation as it's self-generating and now home to many endangered plants and animals.

It was also quite busy, with lots of tourists and a fair number of people dressed in kimono. There was an adorable three year old girl in kimono doing hopscotch along the path. She looked like Boo from Monsters, Inc. with her hair in pigtails.

Up by the main building, chairs were set out for a Noh performance that night, a big sign announced, apologizing for the inconvenience. It also announced that all tickets were sold out. I moved onward to the main building, where a monk inside chanted. Truly, the shrine was magnificent. I looked around but noticed no one taking pictures. I waited, keeping an eye on the many Japanese tourists to follow their example. I finally saw a guy pull out his camera, and my hands jumped to mine, unzipping the case, when I noticed a guard swiftly approaching the man. He was told off and the guy humbly left. On my right, I watched the same scene play out and then play out again on my left. Guessing that pictures probably weren't allowed, I moved out of the main hall and back outside.

Looking at my map of the shrine, I decided to walk to the Treasure Hall. It was quiet a long walk, and my legs, after all my walking the prior few days, were beginning to scream in protest. I had discovered in the shower the night before that I had a blister on the bottom of my foot, between the ball and my big toe. I don't think I've ever gotten one there before.

At the treasure hall, I paid my admittance fee, or “maintenance,” as I believe they call it, and headed inside. The hall houses various artifacts owned by Emperor Meiji and his consort. They were interesting to see, even if the English was limited and the objects probably meant more to someone who knew these historical figures better than me. One thing I found particularly interesting was the fact that there were lines and arrows on the floor directing EXACTLY how to walk through the museum. Japan is nothing if not organized. Highlights include Emperor Meiji's writing desk, the couple's carriage, and the portraits of all the Japanese emperors on the walls. It was interesting from my outside perspective to note changes in appearance, dress style, and such between the various men.

Back outside, I rested on a nice little table in the shade and traced out the rest of my afternoon's plan, and also rested my aching legs. From there, I walked out of the shine and into Harajuku, bustling, crazy Harajuku. Right near the shrine is Jingu-bashi, which is famous for its cosplay girls, but I didn't see more than ne there.

Harajuku is where Tokyo's residents go to be spendy and trendy. I had noted that there were two interesting looking shops highlighted in my book and decided to check them out. This also allotted me an interesting chance to people watch. I felt very out of fashion here. I stopped off at a little used kimono display and browsed around, noting that the $200 kimono were mixed in next to the ratty, boring ones prominently displaying “1000 yen!” signs. My most successful venture was in a little place called “Oriental Bazaar” which had various Japanese goods for sale inside at actually decent prices. I had been very good until I got suckered in by English books about Japan, then, really, I was fighting a losing battle. I had been wanting to pick up “The Tale of Genji” to read before going to visit Ishiyamadera, where legend has it the first few chapters were written. And, here it was! So, I grabbed that, then also noticed “The Sword and the Chrysanthemum” which someone had been telling me about just in the past week or so and highly recommending. So, I nabbed that one as well. Then I got reasonable, mentally added up that these books were expensive and I should think about my purchases. Maybe even hold off. I went back to think more carefully.

I bought three books.

This is what happens when I go “think” next to a book display. I just couldn't leave a fascinating-looking book on the court diaries of Japanese women. Alas... I'm just that much closer to my goal of having wall so bookshelves like Alan's parents someday.

I then decided it was time to look for some food. I had my HAJET Japan Vegetarian guide with me, so I decided to try for a little Indian place recommended. I'd be craving curry all day. Now, this was my first time trying to find a Japanese address. For those of you who don't know, let me explain as best I can. See, I really need someone to explain it to me, as it makes no practical sense in my mind.

The address was for a building in a neighborhood (where I already was!) in block 1, section 15, building 1. So, basically, you get to the right area (which, in this case, was perhaps 20 or more square blocks), wander around until you get to the right block, then the right section, then find the right building. It's all very complicated and as far as I can tell just requires lots of guess and check. Most streets don't have names. And most buildings don't have their address posted, making it next to impossible to figure out where you are, never mind find what you're looking for. This might be why many of the JETs got iPhones. I asked multiple people for help, but even shopkeepers didn't know where it was. A security guard eventually got me to the right area and I finally stumbled upon it, in a lot of luck. Really, there was no way I should have been able to find this place.

I wandered in and found it empty. I asked for a table for one and was seated. As the only person there, I was given personal attention and also seemed to make the waiter a bit uncomfortable by my singularity. My server was Indian, which make me hopeful for a good meal. I was then struck by a bit of confusion as to whether English or Japanese would be the better language to attempt to proceed in. I asked, and he said English was better. We went along in English, which, really, was better for me, too.

I ordered curry and nan (not included!, which bumped up the price a bit) and feasted on my big Tokyo dining splurge. I was famished and it made me quite happy. I also drank lots of water and was given a glass of complimentary drinking yogurt to go with my meal. Eventually, I paid up, and mentioned to the server that the restaurant was in my book. I think he thought I wrote it, as he gave me his card.

Then, I was back on the streets of Harajuku. It's amazing at what distorted angles I can still recognize a sign as belonging to Godiva. This shop was a Godiva Chocoiste, which sold limited items (a few candy bars, pearls, gems, and specialized in a constant stream of chocolixirs, hot chocolixirs, and coffee chocolixirs (which we don't have in America.) I asked permission and was granted a picture of one of the chocolatiers who was wearing a witch hat, like I did in America.

From there, I walked back up to the station and headed onto the Metro to catch a train to Shinjuku. I was getting quite good with the metro, even though it was almost exclusively in Japanese. At one stop, the train stopped, then there were about two minutes of announcements before the doors opened, then the train went backward one foot and stopped again because it wasn't perfectly lined up with the platform.

In Shinjuku, I wandered around a bit more, mostly looking for a place, any place, to buy sweets. I was striking out. I wandered around the station some, and managed to get completely lost and twisted around. I came out some weird back stairway between displays of this huge department store filled with ritzy young girls. I was definitely OUT of my element and darted out of there as fast as I could. Outside, many police officers were there with a young eager crowd that looked slightly organized, like an opening event or something. I don't know what. I wandered farther, getting increasingly panicked about what'd I'd get as a gift, and finally asked some police officers. After first teling me that it was too late and I should wait until tomorrow, they directed me to a department store saying there were good sweets inside, but time was getting short and it was late. This conversation, by the way, was equal parts English and Japanese.

I wandered inside and was greeted by a huge room of posh little counters representing different little shops. Most paid the girl in the sweatshirt with a huge backpack no mind. I passed a Godiva and looked at their display. I was not offered a sample. I eventually asked one counter, that had some interesting items what their local specialty was. I'm not quite sure I got a local specialty, but the sales girl helped me put together a small, nicely packaged bag with three large sweet balls. I'm not sure how big a gift is expected, as too big is insulting!, but this seemed like a good size and decent price.

I wandered around more and people were nicer when they did a double-take of the large sweets bag on my arm. At another booth, I ended up getting a small package of gelatinous fruits (such an UNAPATIZING NAME!) for Mischievous-sensei. See, he's in Malaysia with the students, but before he left, he came to my desk and asked me what I wanted from Malaysia. I was shocked, but he was serious. I asked what my options were and did mention that food is often hard, as I'm a vegetarian. We settled on some sort of small trinket. And, I admit, I'm excited for it! So, I figured it'd be best for me to pick him up a small something as well.

From there, I wandered back outside, but circled a few times with no idea what to do with myself. It was all shopping, but I had no intention, patience, or space to shop. I just wanted to sit, but I couldn't find the Starbucks I'd seen earlier. So, I eventually found a little closed crepe place and sat at one of their outdoor tables and started in on the Tale of Genji. Not too many pages in, the owner came up to the tables around me and started explaining that they were closed and he needed to pack up, so I gathered my bags about me and headed off again.

I eventually settled in on top of a wall near Shinjuku Station. This provided me with a good view of the populace and a nice perch from which to read. I read a bit more, but was frequently distracted by the English blasting every four commercials on one of the giant neon TV displays a quarter mile away. “A dream is a wish your heart makes!” Basically, the commercial says that you can be a sophisticated young Japanese businesswoman, but when you open your Disney Mobile phone (from SoftBank!) your face lights up, your hair blows free, you business suit rips off revealing a snazzy little dress and your feet land only on red carpets, which turns your shoes into little slippers, as you happily descend the staircase. Yes, that's what your phone can do for you. I must say, my phone's never done that for me.

Every once in a while, someone would walk past and I'd give a start realizing that they got up and CHOSE to wear that. Like, they dressed that way on purpose. The outfit that stands out best was the shirt made entirely of artificial sunflowers. Oh my!

With 20 minutes to 10, I decided to head out in search of my bus. I needed to check in by 10 and the bus would leave at 10:20. So, I started off. Inside the station, I once again got twisted around – the labeling is poorly done, but I never got lost, per se. It did take me 10 minutes though to emerge on the proper side of the building where buses were. I saw another Godiva on the way up. I walked up to an official looking guy, showed him my paper with my confirmation information, and asked where. He stared at it, looked confused, then finally got his partner's attention, they looked at it together and finally stumbled out the phrase “no.”

Excuse me?

“No bus.”

Um.... WHAT?! I probably looked on the verge of crying as I was supposed to be checking in with my bus in the next 5 minutes and this guy was telling me there as no bus.

I thanked him and panicked onward. I found someone else, who eventually directed me down a street, and from there, someone else who directed me to the other side of a building. There, now in full panic, I asked another official looking person for directions, who then asked my name, flipped through some papers, checked me off her list, and directed me onto the waiting bus.

Relief.

I climbed on and was settling in when I realised I hadn't used the bathroom in my rush to get on board. Alas, I knew we'd stop a lot. I listened to some Pollyanna until the bust started moving. This one came with blankets but no eye coverings. My seat-mate was a young woman who I thought spoke English, as I thought she said hello as I came barreling aboard, but I had been quite distracted. We settled in for the night. I needed to, as I was tired and I had a long day ahead of me.